Line up the two units of squares so the colors are opposite to form a four patch block. Repeat the process for the other dark and light 2″ X 2″ squares. Press the seam allowances toward the darker squares. ![]() Sew a darker fabric to a lighter fabric with the right sides together. Starting with 2-inch squares, using a ¼” seam allowance. ![]() For this pattern, we will discuss the directions for just one square. If you are making a few squares, start with a longer strip of each color. The outside corners of the triangles will extend slightly beyond the outside edges of the Four-Patch unit.However, when making the 9-inch block use the sizes noted above. The directions note the 12-inch block.Fabric Cutting Directions:īefore starting to make the block, cut the following from EACH of your two fabrics:įabric pieces for 12 x 12 inch finished sizeįabric pieces for 9 x 9 inch finished size However, you can make this using two, three, or four different colors. The pattern is written for using just two fabric colors. Pin or clip your pieces together before sewing them to ensure proper seam alignment. The directions for this quilt are for rotary cutting, machine piecing, machine quilting, and the binding is hand-stitched to the quilt back.Īccurate cutting and sewing enhances your final product. Sew fabric together with right sides together. This will help you get uniform seams, and matching seams. I recommend using a special presser foot with a ¼-inch guide if you have one for your machine. The outside corners of the triangles will extend slightly beyond the outside edges of the Four-Patch unit. However, when making the 9-inch block use the sizes noted. Laura sort of hit a wall on meandering, which I think is a common experience when quilters first try this pattern.For the larger triangles, mark the center of each diagonal and line it up carefully to keep your block square.ĭouble check the placement of each round of triangles before stitching to keep the trail going in a spiral. (It seems like it should be so easy, right?) She asked me about keeping the pattern even, how to see where you are going across the quilt when you are working one small area at a time. She said she felt like she was quilting an area and then drawing "a long lonely line" to get to the next area. Keep trying! Meandering looks so simple but it really takes a fair amount of practice.I emailed her my advice (this was, ahem, ages ago), and wanted to bring the subject up here too. There are easier pattern for beginners to start with, so don't feel like you have to meander right out of the gate. If meandering is getting you down, stitch something else for a few quilts. Paper is way cheaper than fabric and with meandering you have to get your brain used to figuring out where to go next while keeping the pattern curvy and consistent like you want it. Use a colored marker and you could reuse your sketch paper for wrapping paper! This is just like any other skill, it improves with practice.Let the edges of any area you're stitching be curvy.That way when you stitch the adjacent area the "join" between the two disappears, and it looks like one cohesive unit instead of two separate areas. ![]() Make a plan before you start about how you will move across the quilt.Leah Day of the Free Motion Quilting Project talks about how she sections a quilt in this video. I like the way Elizabeth of Oh, Fransson plans her quilting, shown in this picture. Or you could just meander in wide (6-10") rows across the quilt, keeping the edges curvy on each row so the next row can nestle up against it. ![]()
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